New to Puppet Making.

[Puppetainer]

I wondered about that too. It almost seems like reticulated foam has achieved a kind of puppet-urban myth status. I think that some puppet makers touted this type of foam as preferable and it's just kind of spread amongst the community. I know that Project Puppet state on their site "reticulated foam is strong and resilient, and will last for years (unlike upholstery foam)". And again I have yet to build a puppet using reticulated foam so I'm not really an authority.

While I haven't had much experience with reticulated foam I do have poly foam that I bought over 15 years ago that has yellowed a bit, but other than that is pretty much good as new. And that foam was stored in the open air, though away from much light. As Buck mentioned earlier most times you're going to end up rebuilding or replacing regularly used puppets over time so I don't know that my foam needs much more longevity than that.

I know that when I first started making puppets I worried that I was making a mistake by not using reticulated foam. I was concerned that my hard work would crumble to dust in just a year or two but over time my experience has shown me that whether or not it is "better" poly foam works great for me.

 

[puppetsmith]

Just thought I'd chime in on this one.

I'd be hard pressed to say that any type of foam is "better" than any other type. Unfortunately, they all break down. At the same time, they are manufactured for a reason (for different abilities or special properties), and many types of foam could very well have an application in different puppet building situations.

When it comes to the two types in question...here is my experience in the context of building a foam puppet...

If foam is to be used as the "skin" of the puppet, then reticulated foam is a better choice. Not that polyfoam can not be used, but the properties of reticulated foam make it a better fit for the job.

• Both foams will yellow as they are exposed to UV light, but in my experience reticulated foam doesn't seem to change color as drastically as polyfoam. Polyfoam can turn almost brown over time. I've never seen an old piece of reticulated foam verge on brown, just a dark yellow. That's an important factor to consider when you want the color of your character to stay as close as possible to the original color over time.
• The more porous surface of reticulated foam (at 35ppi typically) makes hiding seams easier.
• As far as strength, reticulated foam is more resistant to tearing. If you want to test it, just try tearing a piece of reticulated foam and a piece of polyfoam with your hands. You'll have to work a little harder to rip the reticulated foam in two. This being the case, reticulated foam will allow you to worry less about the foam tearing in the areas of the puppet that get the most wear...corners of the mouth, etc. Since the foam is the "skin", these areas would more than likely be visible.

If the puppet is to be covered with fleece/fur/fabric and the foam is just an understructure, then polyfoam does just fine.

• You don't have to worry about colorfastness because the fabric covering is what determines the color of the character. Plus having a covering for the foam protects it to a good degree from UV rays and actually slows the break down process.
• It's less expensive and more readily available.
• If the foam were to tear at areas under more stress as the puppet is used, they would most likely be covered (by the fabric material) and would not detract from the character. In fact, a tear here and there under a fabric covering can "loosen up" the puppet and provide for better manipulation.

Of course, there are other kinds of foam that work well in certain instances. L200 or minicel foams for a sturdier understructure (if the puppet is large or needs to support a heavy fur, etc.). Soft foam or memory foam for super flexible mouths/snouts/features. And the list goes on.

The point is to use the best material for the specific job/application. That's always a good rule to keep in mind when choosing any materials for building your puppet characters.

 

[Puppetainer]

I bow to the master! Awesome info! I hope you didn't think I was in any way slighting yourself or your awesome company with my quote. As I mentioned I don't really have any experience yet with reticulated foam so I'm glad you could offer a better perspective. It may seem kind of silly but I really have always wondered about the differences in durability of the two and it's good to have a better understanding. I'm glad you chimed in with your expertise!

 

[spcglider]

Actually, this is where that whole concrete puppet thing comes in...


Just kidding.

Any kind of urethane foam will break down over time. Its just the nature of the beast. But for quite a while, it has a great set of properties that we find useful in puppet building.

Its hard to make a puppet and be proud of it yet have to keep it stored away in a light-proof container (it is UV light rays that break down urethane... not air... unless you live in LA where the air quality breaks down titanium). So a lot of people tend to display their puppets or keep them on stands. However, with this you run the risk of letting sunlight hit them, even through the window. I know several puppets that have "light sides" from sun fading on their fleece covering.

And it bothers some people (who consciously or sub-consciously anthropomorphize the puppets) to put them in a sealed box.

But that's the way it is. at least, if you want to extend the life of the puppet!

 

[Blink]

... (who consciously or sub-consciously anthropomorphize the puppets)...

Ha! Ha! I just gave my Grade 5 (5th Grade, for my American friends) students a test on the definition of that very word. They bombed it and didn't seem to think anyone would ever use it in daily talk. I guess they were wrong. Sorry, back to the discussion. Foam...breaking down...

 

[aaronmojo]

Guys, I have a question along these same lines. I have been building puppets for a few years now and I'm wondering, what adhesive does everyone use to join foam seams? Is there anything worth using besides the toxic-fume stuff I currently use? I hate having to go outside and put on a filter mask anytime I want to build a new puppet.

How's hot glue? Does it hold up okay?

 

[Melonpool]

In my experience, hot glue doesn't work on foam at all. Contact Cement so far has been the best thing I've found.

 

[Buck-Beaver]

At work we use 3-in-1 glue, which is an adhesive manufactured by Beacon Adhesives. It works really well on open cell foam (the squishy, sponge-like kind). It is mildly toxic and you should use a respirator and work in a ventilated area, although it doesn't have anywhere near the toxicity of contact cement.

A non-toxic alternative is diluted Weldbond (don't use it straight out of the bottle, you have to add a bit of water, it takes some experimenting to find the right amount), but it produces hard, brittle seams.

LePage and other companies make "Green" latex-based contact cements that are non-toxic. They can work, but you have be very patient and let your seams dry properly.

 

[Animal31]

In my experience, hot glue doesn't work on foam at all. Contact Cement so far has been the best thing I've found.

Really, I just did one on the medium setting and so far I haven't had any issues? When did you notice it coming apart?

 

[aaronmojo]

At work we use 3-in-1 glue, which is an adhesive manufactured by Beacon Adhesives. It works really well on open cell foam (the squishy, sponge-like kind). It is mildly toxic and you should use a respirator and work in a ventilated area, although it doesn't have anywhere near the toxicity of contact cement.

A non-toxic alternative is diluted Weldbond (don't use it straight out of the bottle, you have to add a bit of water, it takes some experimenting to find the right amount), but it produces hard, brittle seams.

LePage and other companies make "Green" latex-based contact cements that are non-toxic. They can work, but you have be very patient and let your seams dry properly.

I have been using Dap contact cement because it's fast drying but man is that stuff toxic. I'm talking outdoors with a respirator. I need to try some other stuff. I'll look into what you recommended.

Hot glue seems to work fine temporarily but it doesn't hold up very well. I used it on a couple "practice" pieces and they started coming apart before too long. Which is a shame, since hot glue is so easy to use and non-toxic.