What do you use to build a puppet's mouth?

[Melonpool]

You may be able to turn the whole thing inside-out to work on it, too, as I did when redoing the Eden Kermit last year. If not, you may have to go in through the back of his head to gain access to the mouth palette.

My recommendation would be to break it all the way, then re-do the hinge with gaffer's tape (or a hi-grade duct tape). It sounds like the original mouth plate is still functional -- just the hinge is a mess.

Here's how I did the Kermit, if it helps any:

http://www.cryptozooey.com/?p=23

 

[Brian Kendig]

Thank you for all the suggestions - I, and Wendell, really appreciate them!

This FAO Schwarz Whatnot is really constructed well - this means, though, that he'll be hard to get into. You can see photos of him here. The body is basically a cylinder with the neck and head coming out of it, so I won't be able to turn him inside-out. There is a seam inside the body, on top of my forearm when my hand is in the puppet; I'll probably rip that seam and try to work the plastic mouth board out through there. And I like the idea of reusing it, just cutting off the fractured hinge and duct-taping the two pieces together.

The only real problem I'm dreading is that I think the plastic is hotglued to the felt in the mouth. And if that's the case, I really don't know how I'll get it off without damaging the mouth in ways that would be really hard to repair. I suppose I could use a hairdryer on the mouth felt to try to soften up the glue, but I hope that wouldn't damage the puppet in any way, with the temperature I'd probably have to get it up to.

I really appreciate the options and the optimism you've given me... I'll let you know how things turn out once I get up the confidence to try something, but meanwhile, I'm still open to advice!

 

[Melonpool]

Another option might be to remove the entire mouthplate (felt and all), then, simply rebuild it and the restitch it in place. If you go this route, be sure to mark on the original mouthplate where the center seam hits on both the upper and lower jaw. That will be really useful when putting it all back together.

You may actually be able to improve the mouthplate a lot from the original if you do this -- incorporating a pocket for your palm and strap for your thumb so that you don;t have to use the original rigid construction. Also, you won't have to ruin any seams on the actual puppet -- just around the mouth. Be sure to get well-acquainted with the ladder stitch, though. It'll save your life in this instance. Here's a link to the ladder stitch, if you need it:

http://www.projectpuppet.com/Page.bok?template=useful-stitches-tutorial

 

[Brian Kendig]

I have absolutely no sewing experience (thought I have friends who do and who could probably be plied with chocolate). My hesitation at taking the entire mouth out is that the seams are on the inside, and there's just no way to get into the inside of the head with a needle to re-sew that...

But you're saying that I (or my chocolate-loving sewing friend) might be able to sew it invisibly (and durably) from the outside with that ladder stitch? Hmmm, that really might be worth a try...

Right now I'm feeling so traumatized by my puppet being *broken* that I think I'd be even *more* traumatized by ripping its mouth out!

 

[Melonpool]

I'd say that it's six of one -- half-dozen of the other. I definitely wouldn;t try this on the actual puppet until I knew if you had the skills to fix it. Maybe you can get a stuffed animal at a thrift store and do some tests? Better to ruin something inexpensive.

 

[Keeermit]

I would use thin timber, thats what most professional puppets are made with e.g. Avenue Q etc - definately would not use cardboard, after a month it was wears away - and I forget who said it but most real professional puppets are not built with cardboard mouthplates. So I would either go for a timber mouthplate or use gasket rubber if you want the mouth to be more flexible.

 

[spcglider]

Jarrod,

Its probably a terminology thing... but "timber" in the US refers mostly to rough-cut logs.

I just want to be sure that's not what you're talking about?

-Gordon

 

[Keeermit]

ooh ok sorry - well timber = wood = plywood = MDF board ........I hope one of those makes sense, just not lumber

 

[spcglider]

Maybe something like a product called Luan? Its 1/4" thick (6.5 mm) and can be cut on a bandsaw. Its a type of lightweight plywood but it will absolutely remove any flexibility in your palette.

I know David Pannabecker uses Sintra board (pvc sign board)in his demo video. That serves pretty much the same purpose and is impervious to the plastic-melting tendencies of contact cement.

-Gordon

 

[Melonpool]

Aircraft plywood works well.