How do you sew a fur covering?

[MuppetQuilter]

Buck's right about the sewing machines. I forget how many bad machines are out there. I'm spoiled by Bernina. But I also hate hand sewing and go to great lengths to avoid it-- I don't even sew buttons on by hand.

 

[Puppetplanet]

I'm interested in building myself a puppet, out of polyfoam, with a fur covering. I have some interesting colored shag like fur that I'd like to use to make a puppet. Now, I only have limited eperience sewing on a machine and none with sewing by hand and I would really like there to be no visible seams once he's built. I'm unsure of a pattern to use, but I was thinking of using the "Blue Boy" pattern. Can anyone out there help me out with learning how to A) Sew a shag fur covering (as well as arms and hands) for a polyfoam puppet and B) Create an inside lining for the puppet as well, one that will run from the bottom of the puppet up to the neck. Buck, Fozzie, Puppet Planet, can any of you guys help me out?

Thanks and I hope to hear from someone soon,
Marc

I'll hop on the soap box and give ya'll my two cents worth.

I used the blue boy pattern to make my son a grover puppet. I didn't have any problems sewing the fur on my cheap standard brother machine at all. I don't see how ya could because your facing the "right" (furry) sides together and then sewing on the "wrong" side. All of the fur is basically hidden while it's on the machine. One suggestion that I must impress if you want a positive effect on fur puppets...... brush the fur AWAY from the edges where your going to sew or cut, sort of towards the middle of the fabric so as not to pull the fur into the stiches or cut it off by mistake. This will help you in covering your seams later because when you brush the fur back into place then your seams will be hidden.

About the lining: I made a lining for my sons grover puppet simply by tracing the entire pattern (minus the arms) on soft fabric, sewing it together and then turning in inside out and putting in inside the fur puppet (with wrong sides together), and then sewing along the hem line or waste area of the puppet and vola..... lining.


Another hint since your new: If you trace the pattern on the fabric, and instead of cutting along that line when you cut it out...... give yourself an extra inch or two at least by cutting around the line you've traced. Also, USE PINS to hold it all together so it doesn't slide on you while your sewing. You can cut off the extra fabric after you have sewn it all together and you'll find that it makes the job much easier rather than trying to keep the sewing needle from slipping off the fabric on a small seam allowance. I still use this method.... especially around detailed fingers and toes on my puppets.

I hope this helps and most importantly.... HAVE FUN with your building, otherwise, whats the point?

-Michele

 

[Jinx]

I, too, have had good results using my fairly low-end Brother sewing machine to sew fur, even longer fur. Really the only trouble I've had is backstitching the beginning of a seam. The presser foot wants to slip off the fur and not "ramp" back up, so I just have to adjust it manually until the seam is begun. Then away I go!

I do find that in addition to making a nicer looking seam, the above-mentioned technique of brushing the fur perpendicular to the seam also seems to make the fabric run a bit more predictably, with less shifting. I also make sure that my left hand is taking up all the slack as the fabric exits the machine, since the feed dogs don't always get the best grip on fur-backing.

The last thing I do while sewing fur is that I do remove my pins just before they enter the presser foot, instead of just sewing right over them like I do on everything else.

I think that more than anything, just paying attention to how your individual machine behaves and adjusting accordingly will yield the best results, regardless of what you're sewing.

 

[Puppetplanet]

I, too, have had good results using my fairly low-end Brother sewing machine to sew fur, even longer fur. Really the only trouble I've had is backstitching the beginning of a seam. The presser foot wants to slip off the fur and not "ramp" back up, so I just have to adjust it manually until the seam is begun. Then away I go!

I do find that in addition to making a nicer looking seam, the above-mentioned technique of brushing the fur perpendicular to the seam also seems to make the fabric run a bit more predictably, with less shifting. I also make sure that my left hand is taking up all the slack as the fabric exits the machine, since the feed dogs don't always get the best grip on fur-backing.

The last thing I do while sewing fur is that I do remove my pins just before they enter the presser foot, instead of just sewing right over them like I do on everything else.

I think that more than anything, just paying attention to how your individual machine behaves and adjusting accordingly will yield the best results, regardless of what you're sewing.

YA! YA! Meeeeeee Toooooo!

 

[Buck-Beaver]

Leliebel - re: Making Fur

If you wanted to make fur, I know people who have done it using weaving techniques. Not sure exactly how they did it. It was time consuming, but looked very, very cool.

A good way to make shag fur is to dye mohair. There's a supplier in Alberta who sells to a lot of doll and puppet makers. I have the contact info somewhere - if anyone every wants to know email me privately and I'll hunt for it. I think I may have posted the address here in the forum at some point.

re: Brother Sewing Machines

Brother for the most part seems make really good machines in any price range. I have seen people (and myself) try to sew thick shag fur on Omegas and other lesser-known brands and completely destroy the machine's tension. I did a large mascot on one machine a few years ago with heavy red fur that sent it to the repair shop. As Jinx says though, if you pay attention to what the machine is doing you're usually fine.

My favourite machine to use is a 100 year-old Singer from the UK that's in the basement. It only has one stitch, no electricity, and no reverse stitch. Best-working machine I've ever seen. People have sewn through 8 (eight!) layers of leather on it!

 

[Jinx]

Wow, that sounds like quite an impressive machine! I imagine its treadle operated?

Growing up my mom had a Pfaff machine that I can only remember being in for repairs one time over a period of 16 years. I remember one time she sewed a yardstick (!) onto a weird costume for someone.

 

[Puppetplanet]

I remember one time she sewed a yardstick (!) onto a weird costume for someone.

And that would be the time it needed repair?

HA! HA! HA! I kill me! hee hee hee, ehem. Anyway.

 

[Jinx]

No, actually. The yardstick was no problem, As I recall the "repair" really consisted of a thorough cleaning after making my sister's prom dress. It was a 4 tiered skirt, very full. We measured the circumfrence of fabric on the bottom tier and it was 96 feet long! There was so much loose thread and fuzz that it kind of gummed up the machine.

Now, back to fur. I just found this bit of advice on a website that i found with some hand stitching info.
http://www.perestroika.ca/html2/vest/handstitching.htm

Sewing with fur, whether real or faux, is a bit different from sewing with fabric. When you cut the fabric, cut a single layer; cut only through the backing. Smooth the fur or pile away from the stitching line toward the fabric right side.
For hand sewing, use a whip stitch.
To sew by machine, use a zigzag stitch, with the "zig" going through both layers of fabric, and the "zag" falling just off the edge of the fabric. The seam should flatten out.
Most seams will be invisible from the right side if you tease the fur or pile out along the stitching line.

 

[MuppetQuilter]

My favourite machine to use is a 100 year-old Singer from the UK that's in the basement. It only has one stitch, no electricity, and no reverse stitch. Best-working machine I've ever seen. People have sewn through 8 (eight!) layers of leather on it!

I know people who swear by the Singer Featherweight-- one of the first 'portable' electric model. I still use my grandmother's from time to time.

Brothers are good machines. In general I'd stick to known brands-- Brother, Viking, Pfaff, Jenome, Bernina. Vikings can be less than user friendly but they're good machines. I don't think newer Singer machines are up to their old standards. I've sewn foam on my Bernina using a basting stitch with no problem (told you I don't like hand sewing).

As far as backstitching on fur goes, that's another good place to cut a little extra fur. Start your seam 1/2 an inch in and you'll be able to backstitch with no problem.

Another note about sewing fur on a machine-- be sure to clean out the fuzz that collects around the needle plate and bobbin regularly.

 

[Puppetplanet]

Another note about sewing fur on a machine-- be sure to clean out the fuzz that collects around the needle plate and bobbin regularly.

Yeah I know, thats the part I always forget, and Antron fleece can leave quite a mess in there. Gets the machine running like a bad car.